Colourspace when shooting time-lapse

Hi,
Up to now I have "developed" my raw stills in the Adobe1998RGB colorspace but feel that the videos are a little desaturated for my taste.
I was wondering if for video, sRGB might be better.
Was wondering what other members have found?
Thanks, Paul

Hey man, what is your work flow? Do you batch process in photoshop or process in AE? I am self taught on the time lapse stuff, so if that is a stupid question a apologise in advance.

Hi Physics,
I shoot medium raws on a 7D, process in Lightroom, export 1920x1080 jpgs, use Adobe Premiere Pro to import, then export as video.
Photoshop is ideal for batch processing but for me Lightroom is idealer (is that a word :-).
I've not got AE, Prem Pro cost an arm and a leg as it is!

If it is just for time lapse, you could get an older version. I don't use most of the new features when doing time lapse. I use AE to do minor color correction, but using lightroom to batch process raws, your work flow is probably better for the color part at least. I hate to say that I don't have good advice for your colorspace :-(.

Hi videostock. If you process in Photoshop, don't forget to convert the profile to a video colour space (PAL or NTSC). Jpeg-Photoshop - new action per sequence, -crop to size-convert to profile - variations (2 clicks up on saturation at the smallest increment) - auto contrast (if it looks OK) will smooth out flicker. - save as... stop action. automate batch. I never shoot raw either. Video frames are forgiving if you shoot jpeg high quality. Saves a load of time in the processing stage too.

Hi Wildwatertv, Thanks for comments and advice. Interesting you say about auto contrast smoothing flicker. Up to now I've used Lightroom with
LR Timelapse.com to try and remove flicker - its results are variable.

Wow - video colour space in Photoshop - I hadn't even noticed it! Can't wait to try it. ....I've just checked Lightroom and it can do the whole workflow you've listed directly from a RAW (including outputting to video colourspace) in one go.

The main reason I like to use RAW is to be able to choose the colour balance at leisure afterwards - I have a 9 stop ND filter which has a nasty blue cast and jpgs can be pulled about badly when trying to neutralize it.

I like your flower timelapses - how long is the time-span for these?

Just a basic question. Why use a 5D or 7D for photo based timelapse? In order to make a ten second video the shutter life of a dlsr is rapidly reduced. For video of 1920x1080 a much less expensive camera will do a very good job. There is no need for a 21 or 18 mp sensor for turning photos into movies. Just a thought. Many of the beautiful flower timelapses here at P5 are not done on such high quality cameras. Just a thought.

Hi videostock. Thanks for the comments. Flowers normally take about a week, though some can open overnight, so I always shoot more frames than I need. Use a growlight with day/night timing and Bowens flash.

Phantomewo is right about the 5D as well. I was lucky enough to acquire seven Nikon D1xs for a building time lapse project, and their frame size is more than adequate for HD video. Because they're not considered professional stills cameras any more they can be picked up really cheaply and they are, to all intents and purposes disposable. I even still use D1s. The colour is a little weird on those, but more than acceptable.

This is also why I shoot Jpeg as well though. The D1x has a 2GB card limit. Doesn't recognize bigger ones, so I get 1200-1500 frames per card. Flicker is a problem that never goes away due to the way modern cameras stop down. It's not a mechanical process any more, it's done with an electromagnet. As a result I have removed all the levers from a set of Nikon lenses and stop them down manually. Seems to work a lot better, but then there's variation in the flash outputs even from professional units.

Hi phantomewo & wildwatertv,
Yes I agree, using cheaper cameras is well worth thinking about. The reason I use a 7D is that I'm from stills photography and that (along with 5Ds) are the cameras I already had before I started time-lapse and video. I have thought about the rate at which I'll "wear out" the 7D but at present there are compelling reasons for me to continue using it.
I want to maximise being in a situation and the stills pay the bills so I need a quality RAW which will give me a 50mb uninterpolated tiff. I want to shoot video and I want small raws for my time-lapse without filling the buffer. The 7D will give me all those, one after the other, with a simple twiddle of the custom knob. On a full shoot one can have a couple of cameras on the go but when out in a city I want to travel light with just one body and a tripod.
In the future I may look at the 550D for timelapse but all the cheaper Canon cameras use SD cards and I have a bucket full of CF cards .;-)

wildwatertv, I like the way you have sorted out some nikon lenses to make them manual - I might try something similar in the future.
BTW do you use ND filters to drag the shutter on sunny day shots? Any recommendations on filters? I'm wondering about the variable ND but am concerned about colour cast - particularly on video as these 7D H.264 files don't stand much/any manipulation.
Cheers

I don't use ND filters much. You're right about the colour they give you. You can do a manual white balance through the ND filters, using a sheet of white paper before you shoot? That ought to get rid of ugly casts.