DSLR Intervalometer with 1/10 sec intervals

Does anyone know if an intervalometer exists that allows you to set it to 1/10 of a second intervals instead of full seconds (for Canon DSLR)?

For example, I would like to set it to take a shot every 3.9 seconds...

It seems like it wouldn't be that hard for an electronics wiz to build, but I'm not that guy, and I have searched high and low with no luck so far.

Even a software-based solution on a laptop would be better than nothing...

Actually, 3.9 seconds is a bad example... more like 3.1 or 3.2 seconds... :)
Thanks in advance!

http://www.pclix.com/index.html can do this in Split Second Mode.
I use this device for my time-lapse shots.
Zygis

Only see one problem with split second timing on the Pclix product - you can't do that in BULB mode, which is super important if you want to keep all the other settings consistent. (ISO, F-stop, shutter etc.. )

Might be better to adjust the running time in post, so it fits the standards of the video delivery format (i.e. 25 fps, 29.97 fps, 30 fps). This can be done either by changing the playback speed or the number of frames used.

Curious why a fractional lapse time?

vadervideo: what importance in BULB mode would have the difference in few decimal seconds between shots (e.g. 32.0s or 32.1s) and for what type of objects?
Zygis

Zyg - no difference... but if in BULB mode and you set everything up - it stays consistent no matter what. I think the problem that is with fractional seconds is a futile issue anyway, The T2i for example allows you to set 3.2 seconds exposure in bulb.. hence, this is where I think EdgeofReason is getting his/her ideas from. But in reality, the camera needs a little "breathing" room to process the image. Hence, I did a run with a setting of 3.2 seconds and needed to give at least 4 second intervals - the camera otherwise could not keep up. ut yes, Zyg - makes no difference, but does lock the settings.. which is great for time lapse sunset to dusk to dark type of stuff. Otherwise the camera tries to adjust to light and screws everything up. Here is what I mean by not getting screwed up - a little bit of overexposure at the beginning, but the transition is perfect (shot last night):

I'm confused on the bulb mode... what is the difference between this and manual? What are you using to trigger your intervals vader?

bulb is manual mode to the max.... basically it is usually the last item on the dial that no one likes to touch. It gives you full control over everything and lets you lock things in. Even setting how long the shutter is to stay open (the actual reason for bulb mode). The real "Bulb" is the last setting in manual and means - I will keep the shutter open until you let go of the trigger, button or whatever device. Or if you have an intervalometer that knows how to keep the "button down", you could program this with it as well. But most intervalometers only send a quick shutter signal or trigger. So when that is the case, I use the subset values under the manual settings and set them just short of what the intervalometer is set at. Henc, if manual mode is set to 3.2 seconds, my intervalometer is set to 4 - gives the camera time to do the transfer and processing. If you set higher, then again, relative to your setting, you should give it some breathing room. I used to use bulb mode while shooting lightning. Simply because I could hold the shutter open until something struck. Now since the storms are so wild, I just go into timer mode and let it rip. This is how frequent the current storms are:



Set at 5 second intervals, shutter open for 4 seconds.

Some additional side benefits to shooting this way:
1. You get some totally cool stills out of every sequence.
2. Since the resolution far exceeds HD you can:
a) render at higher resolutions 2K and 4K
b) frame rate any rate you want, hence also do 2K and 4K Film standards.
3. You get to see really cool stuff and know you captured it super clearly.

so you are manually doing all these, or you have an intervelometer?