Ken Burns effect in timelapse videos

Andy,
Where do you buy it? The website dosen't have any leads.

Scott, I wouldn't leave my camera on for that kind of extended time.

Also, anyone know of a DIY motorized jib or some type of gyzmo that could be applied to a jib you already have?

Off hand I'm thinking of a stepper motor type thing with some gearing to the boom.

Jake

Hi Scott,

I have a Canon G9 p&s and it has a built in time lapse, however it is 12mp but it wont record full resolution (1024 x 768) at 30fps, it will only go to 15fps at full resolution. At 30fps the maximum size is 640 x 480. That's the limitations of a p&s, unless you tether to a computer and run it by third party software.

Norman

I wouldn't think leaving your camera on for long periods of time would hurt the camera.

I just wouldn't point it towards the sun for any length of time...

Hi!
This one was shot with Canon S5 IS and processed with AE:
https://www.pond5.com/pt/stock-footage/264684
To capture stills S5 was connected to PC via USB port.
Zygis

When you say 'processed', what is the procedure for doing this :-). Explain it as if you were explaining to a very slow, challenged, young man. Me.

Hi, dapopta!

Before processing with AE you must convert series of still images to video. Usually for one clip I have 2000-15000 still images. You must choose the length of the final clip and select images accordingly (you need only 375 images for 15s 25fps clip). Also check for 'dead' or 'hot' pixels in image(s) and correct them. I do this in PS (batch automate).

In PS:
- Open first image and check 'Image Sequence' check-box
- Choose frame rate
- File -> Export -> Render video
- Size -> Dimensions -> Custom -> 3264x2448 pixels (for Canon S5 IS)
- Video -> Choose PhotoJpeg -> Best (100%) -> Deinterlace source video
- as a result you have the video with the format of original still images

In AE:
- Composition => New composition => Preset HDTV 1080 25 => OK
- Project => open clip created by PS
- Drag clip into Comp
- Press 'Home' to be sure you are on first frame
- Select magnification fill up to 100%
- Expand properties of the source clip - Transform
- click on 'Position' or 'Scale' or 'Rotaion' stop watch and change settings as you wish - you'll create a keyframe
- Press 'End' to locate last frame
- change again 'Position' or 'Scale' or 'Rotaion' - new key frame(s) will appear.
My be I missed something...
Zygis

Hey Jake,

These http://www.linkdelight.com/index.php/LCD-Timer-Remote/Aputure-LCD-Timer-Remote-AP-TR1N-for-Nikon-MC-36/Detailed-product-flyer.html have it and here is an http://www.amazon.com/Control-Shutter-Digital-Cameras-compatible/dp/B0018205KE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1236979206&sr=8-10 - I think I had gotten it through Buy.com just before x-mas. The company actually has an office they ship from in San Diego. - I used it for the http://blog.vadervideo.com/2008/12/holiday-greetings-from-vadervideo.html - It works like a charm and is fully programmable.

https://www.pond5.com/pt/stock-footage/279341
The point and shoot camera I use for some of my time lapses (like the one above) is the Olympus SP-350, It has a good amount of manual control for a P&S camera, and it has a decent automatic time lapse feature. Although It only lets you take up to 99 still per time lapse session, and the fastest it would go is 1 photo per minute. As ironstrike said, you'd be surprised how quickly clouds can move in 1 minute.

https://www.pond5.com/pt/stock-footage/57582
The other way I usually do time lapses is to take on of my camcorders with a still photo function & remote and to sit down and take a photo ever couple of seconds or so.

The only time lapse I have that has any sort of ken burns like effect was completely by accident.
https://www.pond5.com/pt/stock-footage/86784
The camera started to slide on its own a little bit after I set it to take a photo every minute or so.

Thanks for the feedback so far everyone. Cool clips!

I agree with respect to the clouds. They can move pretty fast, especially when you shoot with a long focal length.

The Canon Powershots G worked with the TC80N3 timer until version 6. Then Canon dropped that feature in order to make people buy DSLRs...The Timer allows you to take shots starting from an intervall of 1 sec up to 100 hs, until you run out of battery or storage space.

Today I wanted to shoot a TL with a rose bed and clouds, but then there was just nothing but blue sky and I ended up with 150 stills of roses). (Ok, actually I wanted to try out the famous cheapo EF 50mm 1.8. Gonna check them now). Anyway, it has been a nice "job" for a hangover day :).

If you have AE it´s the way to go. But if not I think every decent editing suite should include the possibility to move in a supersized video. I guess AE has its strength mainly in the reduction of flickering which, according to what I´ve heard, you can only avoid completely by manipulating the lens so that it stays always at the same aperture without switching back between the shots.

Cheers,
Stefan

In order to capture timelapse with a camera standalone you need a interval timer. The D300 has one built-in. My 5D does not. You can by interval timer remotes for most DSLRs. They will cost you $70-$180 depending on if you get one from the manufacture or from China. Even if its built into the camera the External remotes are easyer to use.

If you want to keep from wearing out your shutter do it in live mode. The mirror stays locked up. DSLR timelapes blows video timelapse out the door.

If you are going to do a real long time lapse I recomend an AC adapter for the camera. Most DSLRs have the ability to use an outside power source.

Live view will play a heavy toll on the batteries. In the case of the 5D I stick plug in the Video jack. the camera thinks there is an external monitor attached so it shuts down the LCD but still keeps capturing shots.